Terroir: Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils owns a total of 7.5 acres of this most famous of the Grand Crus of Chablis, more than any other producer in the region. Their primary parcel sits on the high portion of the hillside with a direct southeast exposure. With the steep grade, drainage of the kimmeridgien soils is quick leading to low yields of the densely planted vines.
Vinification: A sizable 40% of the final blend is aged in oak cask, although only a small percentage is new barrels. The oak contact is unobtrusive and is a testament to the sheer power of this Grand Cru.
Score: 95 PointsWine Enthusiast Author: Roger Voss
"This wine has a rich, fat, almost buttery character. Certainly the acidity is there, although it has a warm, summer feel. The structure typical of Les Clos is all there as well, giving concentration and density. At the end spice goes with the extreme freshness of the citrus aftertaste. Drink from 2020. "
"The 2013 Chablis Grand Cru les Clos, which comes from three hectares spanning almost from top to bottom of the slopes, was showing a slight reduction on the nose, which made it difficult to prize open (perhaps a hangover from last year when I was unable to really judge the wine?) The palate is also just a little reduced, but there is good weight in the mouth, fine acidity with a pleasant, austere, lime-tinged finish that will take 4 or 5 years to open. I am sure than the Valmur will drink sooner, but this Les Clos is worth finding space for in your cellar.
"In 2013, the challenge was to avoid botrytis and tropical flavors, so they made the wines in a more reductive way. "When you have botrytis, it is more sensible to do more oxidation to take down the CO2, but I wanted to avoid that," he told me. Naturally, the 2013s required rigorous sorting upon entering the winery and Christian told me that approximately 15% of the fruit was discarded at this point.
I was impressed by the 2013s last year and I concur that they have an appealing terroir-driven streak to them relative to other growers that tended to feel a little "flabby." While the 2014s are better, the 2013s will offer plenty of early drinking pleasure..."
Score: 92 PointsVinous Author: Antonio Galloni
Bright medium yellow. Reticent aromas of underripe pineapple, white nectarine, crushed herbs and white pepper. Very ripe, supple and fine-grained, with the fruit and spice flavors conveying an impression of finesse. The 2013 grand crus were bottled this January, except for the Blanchots, which was bottled in September of '14 owing to the small size of the cuve.
"The wood treatment is similar to that of the Blanchots as it does not dominate the pear, apple and mineral reduction aromas but it's not subtle either. There is impressive concentration and power to the broad-shouldered medium weight flavors that exude a fine bead of minerality on the intensely saline, balanced and solidly persistent finish. This shouldn't have any difficulty integrating its wood with a few years of bottle age."
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