Terroir: The Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Grand Cru Les Clos ‘Clos des Hospice’ is produced from the domaine’s tiny one-acre monopole at the foot of the Les Clos vineyard. The vineyard was acquired by the Moreau family in 1904 and has a slightly different terroir to rest of the vineyard, with slightly heavier marl soils, old and densely planted vines.
Vinification The grapes are pruned heavily during the growing season to keep yields to a minimum. Grapes are hand harvested using small containers, and brought to the winery for further sorting. Like all Moreau wines, the selection process is strict for this cuvée with only the highest quality grapes making their way to the fermentation. The must is fermented in stainless steel followed by 12 months of aging in the cellars. A small portion on the final blend is aged in oak cask.
Score: 93 PointsWine Spectator Author: Bruce Sanderson
"This white evokes lemon cake, butterscotch, apple and saline notes on a taut frame. Balanced and intense, finishing wiht a flourshish of fruit and spice."
Score: 94 PointsBurghound Author: Allen Meadows
"Moderate wood influence sets off the notes of orange peel, lemon, floral notes and wet stone. There is an attractive spiciness to the overtly mineral-driven broad-shouldered flavors that coat the palate with dry extract on the hugely long finish. This is bigger and richer than the regular cuve though not necessarily more complex or more persistent. A qualitative choice."
Score: 95 PointsThe Wine Advocate Author: Antonio Galloni
"The 2010 Chablis Les Clos Clos des Hospices adds some of the textural richness found in the Valmur with the delicacy and salinity of Les Clos. Smoke, graphite, crushed rocks and licorice are some of the many notes that add complexity on the textured, caressing finish. This is another standout from Moreau. The style is a bit huge and the rich fruit will surprise those looking for subtlety, but it all works. Anticipated maturity: 2012"
"In 2002, Christian Moreau took back control of his 50% portion of the family vineyards, part of the Jean Moreau chablis business sold to Hiran Walker. From the moment the vines came back under the family's control, they started to move towards fully organic viticulture. getting organic certification in 2010. Christian's son Fabien managed the new enterprise and supervises the winemaking of 11.5 hectares of Chablis. the wines are now regularly among the finest and purest of Chablis.The Clos des Hospices, lies at the foot of Chablis' great grand cru amphitheatre. Fermented in stainless steel, the entirety of the Clos des Hospices now spends around eight months in mostly old wood, whereas only a third of the straight les Clos is similarly aged in wood. The slightly warmer site produces a wine that Fabien describes as more exuberant and accessible earlier than the standard Le Clos. It is a wine subtley marked by its oak and minerality, as you would expect from fine Chablis, and with the complexity and length that befits a top grand cru. Seductive already, it will be better in another four years."
"This is reduced to the point of being unreadable. Happily the reduction does not extend to the spicy, intense and overtly stony broad-shouldered flavors that coat the palate with dry extract on the hugely long finish. While the Clos des Hospices is not necessarily always superior to the regular cuve, in 2010 there is clearly more underlying material."
"The estates 2010 Chablis Les Clos Clos des Hospices (from a single parcel in Les Clos) is a delicate, understated wine laced with hints of smoke, ash, crushed rocks and citrus. It comes across as quite reserved next to Les Clos. The Clos des Hospices impresses for its striking beauty, detail and tense, wiry finish. This is likely to require a measure of patience. The 45% oak is very well balanced. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030."
"Pale yellow with green highlights. Quite reduced on the nose, showing a smoked meat quality today. Broad and dry but showing less obvious acidity and definition today than the regular Clos. This ripe, large-scaled wine will need time in bottle to shed some of its baby fat. But for all its size, it finishes with a light touch."
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